Відео

Bravo for another great video and sewing tips!❤️

Your cap Video is phenomenal! I’ve been thinking about trying to make a visor, but your cap design looks like an interesting challenge. Thank you for your time and talent.❤️

Beginner sewist, made pink corduroy pants as my first project, and didnt know anything about selvedge. But was so enamoured with the fuzzy look of the ends of the fabric i used it as fringe on the seams. Now i know there's a name for this, and other designs that incorporate it, I'm more excited about other low waste fashion design!

I thought 10 * (1/8) - 0.5 = 0.75...? How did you get 4.5 ...

I have an old Singer 347 (the famous in metal blue color) ❤ my favourite. It never let me down. I had even a new style Singer Symphony but this last often need service repair 😢.

Your ironing board cover is beautiful. I need to make one and had bought a heavier cream material. Now I wished I had used a prettier fabric. Thanks for another great video.❤️

🤣🤣🤣

Thankx so much for a clear tutorial! I read your backstory, and can recall something from my childhood 70+ years ago… living in Tidewater, VA, (now part of Virginia Beach) my father hired a local Mennonite farmer to plow the field behind our house. His English was impeccable, unlike the locals, and my father was very strict about grammar. I was very impressed!

So many great comments. My 1970, 7th grade junior high brain was shouting, “That’s right!” With much glee as I read and remembered! Thank you! My 67 year old sewing brain was thinking, “Where is mine?” “Why am I not using this?”.

Amazing shirts! Love the tag, really nice touch! One tip, and you probably figured this out by now but you're not really supposed to use those cones of thread like a spool - they're too heavy and don't turn smoothly, so unwinding the thread will have inconsistent tension, and you'll have to readjust tension between different threads more. Cones are meant to be used with a thread stand like on your server where they unwind upwards, and this should minimize twisting too. You can use (or make) a thread stand for your home machines, just skip the spool holder. Or use one on your server and put it close to your lockstitch.

Great, video - really appreciate you going through each of the techniques rather than just one! You missed one though - you can get what's called a "buttonholer attachment" for most straight stitch or zigzag lockstitch machines. It's a whole little machine that replaces your presser foot and can do a whole variety of sizes and shapes of buttonholes, plus bartacks usually. After selecting the shape, size, stitch width and length, you basically just align the fabric, clamp, and sew until it's finished. Aside from a dedicated ($5000) buttonhole machine or hours of hand sewing, I think this is the only way to get a keyhole style buttonhole rather than a straight stitch one, although it's not a proper milanese one for sure and doesn't look as good. But they can produce nice, repeatable results with minimal technique. Recommend getting a metal one if you can, the plastic ones are pretty janky.

Thanks for the info!

Hilarious!

A hemming gauge

When you sewing the sleeve to the armhole, the inner curve of the armhole (drawn with the inside holes) will fit perfectly with the outer curve of the sleeve cap (drawn with the outside holes). This ensures a smooth, professional finish and a comfortable fit because you want the extra to be symmetrical or it will show or not be comfortable

Thank you for this

What Savage mean pls?

You are far better than my design faculty!❤

You are the best

This looks like my machine! Thank you for showing me how to clean & take care of it better…and I subscribed too!

The curlers brought a tear to my eye. I took my grandmother's curlers out Sunday mornings and poisoned us with a half can of Aquanet. She passed when I was 12, I'm nearly 50 now.

Awesome

Sooooo slllooooowwwww

I have pulling by my armpit , i have a pretty muscular build any solution?

Thanks for the tips about timing, I'm guessing that's what's wrong with my 1960's Universal machine, was working fine then all of a sudden would miss at least 3/4 of the stitches, didn't matter what, even after I put the same thread and bobbin in it that it came to me with from the shop... and changing the needle didn't help at all, I tried all the needles I had. Any ideas what could be causing my 70's Kenmore to snap its thread any time I sew anything too thick? It somehow gets the bobin thread pulled back through the needle or something equally weird, ever since I had a needle snap a few projects ago I can't sew more than 4 layers (think, seam) and that's pushing it. I migh try loosening up the presser foot? Now I just have to figure out why the 1914 hand crank machine sometimes leaves a loop on the bobbin side, I thought at first it was irregularly wound bobbins because the thing's 110 years old and the bobbin winder's a bit slippy sometimes but even using my hands to keep the tension even it's not completely gone away. I'm guessing the Guterman cotton thread I'm using occasionally snags something, I've played with the shuttle (bobbin) tension as well as the top thread tension and it doesn't seem to make a difference whether it's running tight or loose, though I suppose I could try running it with one side too tight and the other too loose then swapping which is which to see if there's any change, might give me an idea where the problem is. Seems less of an issue with a smaller stitch size. The presser foot tension thing might be something I need to play with, sewing heavier stuff on the hand crank machine was puckering a bit. Life would be so much easier if I could just afford to take them all in to a professional :P But at least I've found manuals for every machine I own except the treadle machine (that's because the Minnesota A machines were made by at least three different manufacturers for Sears Roebuck).

Perhaps use one pin and make a circle

This is used for measuring fabric

Yes please. 👍👍👍😊😊😊

Just to make things clear, are all those numbers except the body measurements kinda standard? cuz i did exactly what you showed with my measurements and did the math with the other values you showed here and it worked! So is there a guide where to find all these values to use when drafting a pattern?

Once again you have made a tutorial that is excellent and easy to understand. Thanx a million 🩳🏆

Aside from being an amazing tip, this felt satisfying like an ASMR

Hi Cornelius, this was a great video! I know how to iron my shirt's better now!😅

Hi there Cornelius, thanks for this video! Does the inseam line of the pants have to make that slight curve inward starting from the crotch or can it also be straight? i'm making baggy denim shorts and I kinda think a straight line fits better in this case, will it cause any wearability issue?

Sorry to burst your bubble, however this is not the "proper" way to do it but rather subjective. Water spray is unnecessary with steam action. Turns out, you're ironing the wrong side of your collar! You only need to iron/steam the other side. I personally prefer steaming vs ironing and have found it to be even more adequate. The steamer can easily tackle wrinkles that are extremely difficult and sometimes impossible to get with an iron. It can also eliminate pleats unlike an iron. Steaming does not introduce wrinkles the way that ironing does either. It additionally gives the shirt a much more relaxed look and feel.

Thanks for gelling together things I've mostly sorted out msyelf, one thing a lot of the sewists I watch don't cover in anything about fitting is how to actually move or change the arm hole. I'll be sneaking off to adjust my princess seam bodice block armscyes next time I make a supportive garment, I need the shoulders a bit more to the front/narrower and now I have a better idea how to actually do that. I've also discovered a Secret Weapon against shirts being a bit too tight across the chest if they're fine down the ribcage: I add a small square armpit gusset. In my case it's usually caused by my bust, but also shoulder muscles can do it too if that's how you're built.

I'm surprised you don't know this, but...please, PLEASE don't turn the handwheel backwards, like in this video. Only forwards toward you. Otherwise, you'll throw out the timing in the machine.

I HAD to subscribe!

Seams need to be trimmed closer to stitching before turning. The holes are indeed used to pivot also as a measure to mark when pattern making.

pattern drafting is just all about ease distribution, especially when converting a pattern into a selvedge pattern. A couple months ago I had to transform a pattern into a selvedge one and was stressing so much about it due to the curves, until randomly I just thought why don't I move the curves around the way you did in this video. It was like a light switched in my mind

I have barely watched the tutorial yet, but I am in love with your personality! I hit follow to make sure I can find your tutorials (but primarily your energy!) again.

Great video! One thing though - to do a proper lap seam (one panel overlaps the other and they're sewn together at the seam allowance with no folds.. although people also call a half-felled seam a lap seam), factories use a flatlocking machine rather than a coverstitch. This creates a stitch that looks like the underside of a coverstitch on both sides, usually with three needles, and it's very stretchy and handy for thick knits, but also athleisure wear. The coverstitch is used for topstitching shoulder seams, collars, hems, etc, but is not strong enough to hold a lap seam (since the raw edge of the fabric is within the seam width). I haven't tried the "flatlocking" technique on domestic overlock sergers too but I've heard that it also isn't very strong. Unfortunately I can't find any flatlock machines that aren't big expensive industrial units. Maybe you could get something strong enough with a wide zigzag lock stitch plus three lines of chain stitching or plus a coverstitch plus a chain stitch. Or plus three lines of lockstitching if it can stretch enough or doesn't need to stretch like shoulder seams. But it'll be hard to make it look even because it's all so close together and the seam bulk will squirm under your presser foot. By the way, if you do a straight lock stitch on knit fabrics, you can make it stretch more by loosening the tension as much is practical.. plus play with stitch length, shorter may be better depending on where you can set the tension.

Incredibly helpful - thank you,

What measurments do u use for the quadrat

On the diagram 1/2 inch seam guide the square = the area between 2 squares is where the fabric is gathered between those two marks. The triangle = is for location where front to back are pined together to join them when sewing. The circle is for marking where the points of darts end. All these were for marking on drafted patterns They are the same markings found printed on purchased patterns The top opening above the square is when buttons are sewn onto clothing this tool gave room for the thread to be run around the button stitching to give it space and strength before pushing the needle to knot it off. Also that side from top to bottom should be 1 inch. These seam guides are no longer being made and harder to find. every time I see one I buy it.

So it's in the drape of the fabric then?? In other words, if these items were made with fabric that were thick and stiff, it would have worked out differently??

I just found you, cool! Grammy in Utah

My mother had a padded fabric covered board on her cutting table. She would then use a "Foldable cardboard Cutting Surface" on top of the padding when she needed a harder surface. Using the sewing gauge with straight pins worked very well for her.

Please make me video in hindi

I am trying to learn how to make my own clothing, well a woman's dress 😂 but I find your vid to be the easiest tutorial that makes sense for absolute beginners. Thank you so much for the video

Its not a ruler,its a seem guide for sewing